Saturday, March 30, 2019

Islandy

Jeju Vancouver Sardinia Malta Xlendi Ireland EngScotlandWales Cortez Lasqueti Saltspring PEI Cape Breton Penelakut Manhattan Montreal Laval Newfoundland Iceland Galliano Sicily Pender Hornby Madeira Valdez Jamaica Bahama KeyWest Herschel Thetis Gabriola.
So, right off the bat, because of their bridgeyness I have to count Manhattan, Montreal, and Laval off the list. These are pretty much urban spaces unto themselves, and have lost their islandness. Gadz, there are even tunnels that give them the continental connection, and as such, I am tempted also to eliminate EngScotlandWales from the list. But the chunnel hardly serves the whole British island, and though it is more than twice the size of VancIsland, and the largest island on my list, I will leave it on here, because it was there, on that British island, that I first coined the term, "islandy": an adjective that comprises oddities (to me) that result from its being surrounded by the sea; that is, it is finite.

 I do not live in a finite world. I can always run away, north, east, west, and if my passport is valid, south. As a definitely continental woman, I can sense traits of islands. These traits are subtle, and I cannot generalize across all islands, because population and climate are factors as well, but islandness is definitely a thing.

Walls: Because of limited space, walls, be they stone, or dirt, or thorny shrubs, or rubble piles, these exist on islands.  One can seldom just "cut through" or take the short cut, because many of these hedges and walls and boundary defining barriers are friggin' impenetrable.  In Ireland, on Malta, here on Jeju, especially on the hillyer islands, my Manitoba instincts tell me where I am, and that where I am going is "just over there", but private property is not the only issue.  These lands are hashmarked and their hiking paths are set, defined and it is a done deal. On continental quests, there are always options.

Gardens: This is a matter of scale, and I concede; what we call gardens are actually farms. What we call flower beds are actually gardens. When I walk in the rural areas of most of these islands, Vancouver Island and Newfoundland included, I see small fields - here, cabbages, there vinyards. Maybe 50 meters across, or even 25.  Humble plots, surrounded often by houses and lanes. It feels kind of urban, but then you see them harvesting, commercial-style harvesting, and you realize, no, this is agriculture.  It is not a personal project.  I always thought the Brits' use of the term "garden" to describe the shed-sized plot where they hang their laundry and have a private beer, as quaint British lingo, (we say, our "yard" which is about the dimension of theirs) but now I see it is "islandy". Our garden is their allotment.  Islanders do not have the space to expand, nor often the soil.  Rocky islands experience this even moreso - see NFLD, VancIsland.

Flotsam and Jetsam: I supposed any costal areas, not only islands, are marked with seafarer's castoffs, but to me, it is an islandy thing.  I am prone to picking up things when I walk.  When I travel, I walk and when I walk by the seashores, I pick up and notice the fishers' and boaters' worlds.  Rope. Net. Floats. Screens. Wood. Buoys. Bumpers. Here in Jeju, the flotsam is gathered and left to be recycled reused or refused, somewhere.  It is on the roadside for pickup.  And on islands, this is neverending.  I have brought home driftwood boathooks from Ireland, polyester rope chunks from Sardenia, and little floats and markers, beautifully worn by their life adrift, from all across the gulf islands.  Certainly, there is some litter, but largely, what we see on islands is what was once at sea.  We don't have such pretty litter at home.

Cities: They are smaller.  Some islands have biggish cities.  Some have multiple cities, say two, and one is generally a lot smaller than the bigONE. But urban sprawl is often controlled. (I'd place Victoria as an exception on that generalization.) Historically, unlimited import was an iffy assumption to island folk, so the farms (and the sea of course) were important for survival.  Nowadays, air cargo can bring fresh lobster to fine diners high above Portage and Main. Conversely, islanders can get their wheat flour and almond milk with guaranteed regularity, so self sustenance has become less of an urgency. Fresh water, on the smaller islands can be hoarded against boaters (I have first hand experience on this one), so the finite island mentality increases, the smaller the speck on the sea.  Land on an island is finite.

Soon, I will add Japan to my list of islands.  I like islands.  I suspect that people who live on populated islands with multiple big cities, don't even sense their own islandness.  But, if they come to Manitoba and see how the roads run straight, for more than 500 meters a-stretch, and how the fields expand to create horizon, and how the towns end and grant tens, or even hundeds of kilometers of hamlet-free landscape to passers-by, they will sense the difference that I have been struggling to describe, but in reverse.

The differences are not only landscape, climate, and geology.  The difference are humanly manifest in attitudes of daily life.

When I visit The Island and people ask where I am from, I tell them, and 7 out of 10 times, the interrogative response is, "Why would you live there?".  The answer is, that I am not an islander.
~~n Post28 Day32/75

Friday, March 29, 2019

Canola Bliss

Canola Flower Cupcakes
Oh my! Trade wars no less! To me, it was mustard, then rape, and now canola, and no, never sexy, never special. But certainly, it has become an economic force for Manitoba (and other) farmers, and a controversial crop, what with its round-up readiness and gmo kind of way.
I was forwarned by one of my Korean friends, that because of my timing on Jeju Island, I might miss the intensity of the Cherry Blossom season that is so huge in the southern penninsula, but to not fear, the Canola is beautiful on Jeju.
"You will see it!" he promised, "It is lovely,"
I jerked my head back and looked at him to see if I'd heard correctly, "Canola? Are you kidding me?"
Essential Oil of Canola Honey
Nope. He wasn't kidding.

What I see here by roadsides and in modest empty lots, is beauty to these islanders. What we would weed from our back lanes and corner lots, they enjoy, full force, beside thier blooming gazanias and calendula.
So, I have been taking some pictures, trying to see its beauty.  What I did not expect was cupcakes!
And essential oils, face creams and lip balms!
And these selling at premium prices because of their essense of Canola, and canola honey.

I think we need to get Wendell Estate Honey onto this, if they are not already (and they probably are).
I will confess that I walked past a field of it  this afternoon, and I did notice a sweet pleasant waft of its essense, very nice, especially since I'd just picked a cherry blossom and put it to my nose - and nada.

So here's to our lovely yellow fields, acres and acres of them that could attract hoards of Korean tourists who could "field bathe" in the flourescent yellow, then stop by the honey farm for some perfume and tea, somewhere near Roblin or Macnutt.
It really is a thing here.

~~n Post27 Day30/75
with Cherry
by the sea
meh. don't think so

Wednesday, March 27, 2019

Photo Friday III

All Jeju-do. (click to enlarge photos)

Garbage Receptical
Seogwipo, Jungmun
Horse. Jeju Olle
(Trail) Markers

Haenyeo. Women.
Free Divers
2 Hareubang (Grandfathers)
and a Crone


Vols Kafe - Seogwipo
Osulloc Tea Museum Art


Hallabong Crates (oranges galore)
polygons  of volcanic rock

Seogwipo to Andyeok
South coast.
Aewol-eup
My daily walk


~~n Post26 Day29/75

Tuesday, March 26, 2019

My Friend

Lee JungSeop and JiYeon
I have been moved to tears a few times over the past few days. Life is such a wonderful journey. But sometimes there is static. Pride and humility are such a scrappy duo. Sometimes Mr. P can really keep us from reaping the most of the air we breath, the paths we walk, and the experiences we face. Our inner voice will say, "Oh no, I'm okay. I wouldn't want to be a bother", while Mr. P is saying, "You can handle this on your own.  You do not need help." I see Pride dominating my choices and my actions.
And then I walk into a land where the alphabet on signs is not familiar, the language is foreign, and still, I am determined to wade through.
But it was not to be.  I have a friend.  A determined friend.  A particularly beautiful, smart and loving friend.  And she has pushed through and awakened the quiet and stand-offish child H, in me.  Exhibiting Humility is required when one reliquishes Pride.  Then gratitude spills forth leaving a golden walkway of light and love.
It isn't just the Yoga.  JiYeon and I both love to practice yoga and she has helped me to find three lovely and varied practices since I arrived in Korea, one in Seoul at Yoga en Leibe, her home studio, and two on Jeju, Yoga Borom, at Andeok-myeon and 30Yoga in down-town Jeju City.  All three practices left me bursting with, what I belive to be humility!  I could not have done this without my friend. The joy of meeting these other wonderful yogis and seeing how graciously they welcomed me, a funny-looking Canadian elder from the prairies, and truly I felt crushed with love.
It is true friendship to surrender and let a friend care about you. I see where in my world, Pride has been a brush-off master. Cold. Even arrogant. But Humility is a shy little critter. I did not know her power.  Ultimately I feel stronger for having relinquished the force.  The wall has been shattered.
Together, JiYeon and I scrambled across the Seoul she knows so well.  Time was short and she made sure I would see plenty.  She enlisted the support of her friends and family, and I was swept away.  Then here, on Jeju, she came and spent time with me and again, pulled me from one interesting  moment to another dilectable landmark and across busy and remote landscapes.  Where to next? This is her homeland.  She knows her way and she gave me everything.  Why do I weep with Humility and Gratitude?  It is the purity of love and friendship.  Never ever ever take it for granted.  It is a beautiful human trait.
Thank you JiYeon. And Brian, thank you for finding an impossible piece of time to meet me in Gangnam.
And DaeHyun, my day in GyeongJu City was far beyond what I could ever have imagined. These three are my longest standing students and stand among my closest friends.

~~n Post25 Day28/75

Sunday, March 24, 2019

Becalmed

random neighbourhood sculpture
The roar of the sea has screamed itself out and there are no more whitecaps on the blue. I had forgotten the rhythm of the ocean's proximity. The calm morings.  The midday breezes.  The gusty evenings.  And then some calm again, as days simmer into routine, and there are no cyclones in the offing.
Today I walked the famous black sands of Jeju.  This is all basalt stone and sand, because, well, it is a volcanic island. HallaSan is its centre, its core.  I vow to gaze into the mouth of this volcano, if I can figure out the bus route to get there.  And I shall.
Jeju City is 400,000+ souls on an island of 600,000+. It is a lovely and organized city, as is the whole island. They have given the seaside to walkers and bicycles in my neighbourhood, Aewol - well closer to Gonae, but the villages and bus stops are not far apart.
Kissing Grandfather
I have my vehicle for two more days and will make the most of them.  My friend from Seoul, JiYeon is here and we will drive to the southeast part of the island for a yoga class.  Then we will seek out the grandfathers.
Today we went to a restraunt and had SamBap, again, lettuce wraps, and all of the lettuce is grown on the premises, in hydroculture, part of Korea's Smart Farms initiative.  Very futuristic, and completely delicious.  I also had my first Hweh (raw fish). It is all about the texture I think.  It tasted as good a cooked.
I am pretty certain the smoke from the dreadful explosion in China wafted past me here last night, but all is clear now, to the horizon, and I see an island in the distance. The sky and sea are blue and the air is fresh.
This area is hotels, restaurants, and coffee shops, so I miss the genuine amazement of Korean life in GyeongJu, but modern as this is, it is also genuine.  There are fast walkers, working to complete thier passports, to prove they have walked all 26 links on the chain of the Jeju Olle (trail) that follows the circumfrence of JeJu-do.  There are cyclists, scooters, and just air breathers like me.
Today I picked a gardenia bud and have become aquainted with another flower that is everywhere - camellia.  And the cherry blossoms still are not out.
~~n Post24 Day26/75 (#omg 1/3 already!) 
Electricity Generation for Jeju - Coastal Access
probably coal - dunno yet

Thursday, March 21, 2019

Settled

big balcony
This is my home base for the next 30 days. South China Sea meets East Sea.  Gaze to your left (100s of kms) Shanghai, to your right and overland, Beijing. I am not in a remote part of Jeju, but at least I am settled. My original accommodations on the south coast cancelled on me 3 days before arrival so I urgently booked this.  It is a 1km walk to the bus, that is the same. I am closer to the sea. I have no cooking facilities but there is a fridge and a kettle, so that is good. I had booked a yoga facility, but now it is too far, so I will look for another.
The overnight crossing from Busan was rough, but I got into the rhythm of the bumps and rolls and did get some sleep.  (The sea is still rough. It was plus 16 in my room when I awoke. I'd slept with the patio door open, listening to the breakers, but now the door is closed and ondol <floor heating> is making my space cozy.  I still hear the breakers.  Lots of foam crashing.) Yesterday I found my tsunami escape route, and in GyeongJu there were earthquake action signs <they had one 2 years ago>.
JeJu City is bustling and busy.  I have a car for a week, and will use it to explore the island. The bus system is much better than our rural bus system. The "Trunk Line" is cheapest and goes around and across the island.  There are 13  other "Express Routes" that stop only at main station and have specific routes, and there is also a Jeju City tour bus for 3000W (12 for on/off) that runs 09:00-19:00.  The whole island is accessible if you plan your routes.  I have a KTransit card and can go everywhere (gakk with no luggage to haul! :-), and that I shall. Denser population has its merits.
3rd floor
I posted some night shots of Busan to my IG nelly.mills. I tried the ferry food for 8000W. Not bad.  The ferry was elegant. I picked up my (online pre-booked) rental car at the airport.  Slick as a whip.  Cute wee KIA. Driving is easy here on good main roads.  There is some kind of u-turn thing allowed on the highway, but I haven't tried that.  I don't think ANY left turns are allowed without the arrow, but I will know for sure when someone honks at me. The residential roads are one-lane and very curvy; everything is hills.  I have a bright PINK (ikk) raincoat I will wear for walking, to be visible.  That behavior is right from Betty's British Travels Handbook, with her flourescent orange.  BTW, happy 92nd Birthday Mom.  And also to Big Jim, and of course to our beloved Jan.
If anyone wants to visit, I have a spare Queen in my room!
~~n Post 23 Day23/75 (23rd post on 23rd day/75! #KeepingUp Auspicious? Happy Spring everyone.)

Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Silla

I took photos in case I forgot what I'd seen, but it was not necessary.  The GyeongJu region has left me with a deep sense of humanity behind us, and now.  This is now.  The National Museum of Korea in GyeongJu City is thorough and precicely done.  Immaculate and beautiful. A chance new friend, Kim YinYe graciously showed me the Donggung Palace & Wolji Pond (Anapji), the Cheomseomdae Astronomical Observatory, and the fabulous, newly restored Woljeonggyo Bridge, by evening. Next, my friend and student, Kim DaeHyun gave me a day, from his busy surgeon life, and drove me out of the city to Bulguska TempleSeokguram Grotto, and to the huge Gampo Pagodas and Sea Tomb. All are highly important Heritage sites.  I will have a lantern lit in my name on Buddha's birthday (May 18 this year, with the full moon). I met a few gigantic Buddhas whose temples were not destroyed during the Japanese occupation.  I gazed where the Buddhas gaze.  I smelled the Magnolia blossoms. Luckily, I have chosen a non-busy time. He drove me the long way back, where I saw a huge reservoir, in dense winter grey forest,  and then through a long (15km) tunnel. Oh my! Fabulous infrastructure here.
He left me at the museum and I was already pooched, but I went through anyway - it is FREE!! - where I got confirmation of what I'd eye-witnessed, and more more more.  One interesting part, there'd been a life size painting at Seokguram of a woman who was not visible to the viewer, only to the Buddha, because we cannot walk inside the grotto.  Her name is Avalokitesvara, and here she is, replicated in actual size and 3D at the museum.
Of course there was lots of history of tombs and artifacts and trade.  The history is documented to late BCE, but artifacts go much much farther back. Thousands of years.  The Emile Bell is at the museum.  She is decorated with sprites.
I trained-it successfully to Busan's Bujeon station, metro to Busan Station, and found the Domestic Passengers Ferry Terminal to JeJu-do (do=island). (My first taxi - 5bux.) I received a 20% seniors discount on my ticket. Yippee. I will have a sleeping pad for the12 hour crossing 19:00-07:00 and have a rental car for 6 days as I adjust to Island life.
~~n Post22 Day21/75

Sunday, March 17, 2019

Ruraler


I have not even done Seoul justice and I've already passed that great city.  So, clearly these posts will not go in Seventy5Days chronolgy. When my time emasses again, I will do up Seoul and I realize I must do a trains post, and a food post (yes. Fabulous X 10 to the Nth). Also, I had my first hitchy SNAFU and solved it. Or was it my second? I am living in awe and wonder. There is no time to dwell on the dark side. 
A woman at the info booth for the Daereungwon Tomb Complex said I was beautiful, but I think she meant funky, and anyway, for the first time in decades, I believed it.  I feel whole. I felt a depth of sorrow walking into the complex. Flute music is playing.
Entry fee was 2000Won, so about 2bux. It is a vasty acreage, and posted descriptions politely explain the exploitation of the tombs, much of which occurred early during the Japanese occupation (1880's to 1940's).  There has been extensive archaeological work.  This is very old stuff, back to days when live sacrifice was part of burial (gulp), but that ended LongLongAgo. One tomb has a great dioramic exhibition showing tombs, relics, early excavations and more.  Very well done.
I felt it in there, and the Cherry blossoms were opening, as I walked along!  The blossoms are the size of a small t-cup, so they might NOT be cherries, but 'tis the season. These blossoms are succulent, like magnolia. and golden white.  (EDIT: They are magnolia blossoms. They are native and wild here, and I am witness ♡.) The vast multi acre complex is an arboretum of interesting willows and pines and other spectacular trees (Saweaf Zelkova),  some very large and old. It was quiet, not very many people, although at the far end, there was a bus load of cruise shippers huddling.
After a slow 45minute walk through, including the in-tomb exhibit, I left the complex and knew my way back to my rooms, so started ambling through the streets.  It is strikingly lovely; paved, decorated with sculpture, a wonderful variety of enterprises, and the infrastructure is above. There is only room for one  vehicle, and pedestrians on the inside roads.
Then, wow! another fully interpreted set of tomb mounds.  This one is meditative, free, park like.  I walk through it then down random streets and next,  I find a long (3 blocks?) stone wall that I know is at the end of the street of my motel.  This is new works; not ancient. It ressurection of the original city wall, with an exhibition of the original stones that have been uncovered.
My morning walk accomplished a lot.  Bank Machine - Check. Train Ticket to Busan - Check. Setup tomorrow's GyeongJu tours with my friend from Busan - Check.  Rebook different AirBNB on Jeju because they cancelled on me ystrdy (b*st*rds) - Check.
The farmers that I saw everywhere on the KTX ride from Seoul (see future post) are on the main drags of GyeongJu City, under umbrellas, hucksting luscious vegetables, fruits, fishes - and yes, drygoods.  There is also a t-shaped covered market, about 5 blocks long, 2 minutes from here. Sure, they have grocery stores too, but their market culture puts our farmers' markets to shame.  But we gotta start somewhere.
In case I did not make this clear, I have come to GyeongJu City because it is the ancient capital of the ancient Korea. Silla Wiki.  Think, of the middle eastern or European monuments we tourists flock to - Stone Henge, Pyramids of Giza, Acropolis etc.  Well, I flocked here.  The city that has grown around these unexplained ancient sites is lovely.  Not hectic. And I have two more days.
~~n Post#21 Day19/75

Friday, March 15, 2019

Photo Friday II

Textured edging
I still only have seen a sliver of Seoul. It is calling me back. There is thunder this afternoon, and rain to prompt some trees to bud. The spring shoots are just poking through so Seoul is weeks behind Victoria and Vanc. The grand Namsan has a meticulously managed and elaborate park system, full of variety and detail yet still natural in its winter dress. The bedding plants were going in today. Same old. Pansys marigolds etc in beds. But the walkways and grades are blended, beautiful and enduring. There are many stone accents. It is a well-used park and a destination. There is an observatory at the top.
Old house

From Namsun. Distant view
Gangnam and Han River

Bark bark

Drain cover (photo upside down
atm - edit pending. Hangul=NamSan
=SOUTHmtn)

San=mtn so NamSan Trail


Recirculated waterway
- summer only -



Waterway

Waterway

Wishing stone pile
Houses snakes

Bamboo

Jute carpet walkways

Acres of detail

Shrek the Schnauzer

Extreme fine dust.
Not worse than fire smoke.
Cleared to bluesky by 14:00
Nancy & Shrek
Photo by YoungHye